Forced perspective photography is a style that can be done with optical illusions to make something appear to be different sizes and distances from the viewer than it actually is. You can use this technique to create some rather unusual (and often comedic) effects.
So let's examine some nice approaches to doing forced perspective photography.
As mentioned, it is possible to deceive the viewer by using perspective. Think about a diamond. When it comes to diamonds, size is the biggest thing we look at to work out their value. Clarity and cut are less important to some extent. When we see a photo of a diamond, we need a reference point to understand its size. We are able to manipulate photos to see the diamond and the other object as being completely different sizes, or virtually the same size.
So we've all seen the usual 'holding a landmark', 'leaning on a landmark', 'holding the sun' types of pictures, but how can we get some more interesting photos using this technique?
In this article, I will cover three methods to get forced perspective pictures. The rest is completely your choice - use your creativity and ride that sucker like a wave for as long as possible until you run out of ideas!
Size Changing Forced Perspective Photos
A size altering forced perspective shot can be achieved by manipulating the line of sight, depth of field and distance. First, choose the subject that you want to appear smaller. You would position this object further away from the camera than the subject you want to make seem larger. How close or how far away the two subjects are will determine their difference in size. Obviously a larger amount of space is required for bigger differences in size between the two objects. It's therefore a good idea to do this kind of photography outdoors.
It is also good to use a wide angle lens, say 35mm, or 24mm. Set your aperture to a large F-Stop value. The distance between the two subjects will determine exactly what F-Stop number works best. It is necessary to find a setting that allows you to get both of your subjects in focus.
If your camera doesn't have manual focus, one good idea is to set the autofocus to about a third beyond the subject that is closer to you. The reason for this is that the depth of field is one third in front of the focal point up to around two thirds behind it.
Once you've found the most suitable focus, the next step is to spend some time lining up the two subjects and decide your own position - the overall alignment of the photo. Let's say you are taking a shot where the first subject is a person and he or she has a hand on the other subject. For such a photo you would need to take some time getting the alignment as good as possible. You may also have to take many shots to get the best picture. It is recommended that you use a tripod to cut out movement or a changing position of the camera. Think about gaps and overlaps between the two subjects. You need to spend time getting everything perfect. Think about how many failed attempts you've seen at this type of photography - more than you care to remember no doubt.
Zero Gravity Forced Perspective Photos
This method can be achieved fairly easily, by just placing the camera on its side or upside down. Have your subject or model lie down on the ground and put their feet against a wall, making it seem as though the ground is actually a wall which the subject is leaning against. The model could also lean out from windows or doorways, to make it look as though he or she is hanging. One thing to be aware of is the direction in which clothes and hair hangs. Your model could wear some kind of hat, or tuck in their shirt. It also helps to wear clothing that fits a little tighter than normal.
One thing to bear in mind with this technique is that when you turn the camera on one side, it must be precisely aligned at 90 degrees or 180 degrees with the horizon so that the illusion works properly.
Merged Subject Forced Perspective Photos
Recently it is becoming more popular to show old photos of a scene being held in front of a recent picture of that same place. This is referred to as merged subjects. The aim here is to get the old picture to line up with the size of the current scene. The old photo will be held relatively close to the camera, so a large F-Stop value is recommended with a wide angle lens in order to get the two pictures in focus.
So there we have it - I hope that reading this has provided you with a range of helpful techniques and helped you to understand the fundamentals to be able to step outside and start getting some great shots by using perspective, so step outside when you can and have fun with it!
So let's examine some nice approaches to doing forced perspective photography.
As mentioned, it is possible to deceive the viewer by using perspective. Think about a diamond. When it comes to diamonds, size is the biggest thing we look at to work out their value. Clarity and cut are less important to some extent. When we see a photo of a diamond, we need a reference point to understand its size. We are able to manipulate photos to see the diamond and the other object as being completely different sizes, or virtually the same size.
So we've all seen the usual 'holding a landmark', 'leaning on a landmark', 'holding the sun' types of pictures, but how can we get some more interesting photos using this technique?
In this article, I will cover three methods to get forced perspective pictures. The rest is completely your choice - use your creativity and ride that sucker like a wave for as long as possible until you run out of ideas!
Size Changing Forced Perspective Photos
A size altering forced perspective shot can be achieved by manipulating the line of sight, depth of field and distance. First, choose the subject that you want to appear smaller. You would position this object further away from the camera than the subject you want to make seem larger. How close or how far away the two subjects are will determine their difference in size. Obviously a larger amount of space is required for bigger differences in size between the two objects. It's therefore a good idea to do this kind of photography outdoors.
It is also good to use a wide angle lens, say 35mm, or 24mm. Set your aperture to a large F-Stop value. The distance between the two subjects will determine exactly what F-Stop number works best. It is necessary to find a setting that allows you to get both of your subjects in focus.
If your camera doesn't have manual focus, one good idea is to set the autofocus to about a third beyond the subject that is closer to you. The reason for this is that the depth of field is one third in front of the focal point up to around two thirds behind it.
Once you've found the most suitable focus, the next step is to spend some time lining up the two subjects and decide your own position - the overall alignment of the photo. Let's say you are taking a shot where the first subject is a person and he or she has a hand on the other subject. For such a photo you would need to take some time getting the alignment as good as possible. You may also have to take many shots to get the best picture. It is recommended that you use a tripod to cut out movement or a changing position of the camera. Think about gaps and overlaps between the two subjects. You need to spend time getting everything perfect. Think about how many failed attempts you've seen at this type of photography - more than you care to remember no doubt.
Zero Gravity Forced Perspective Photos
This method can be achieved fairly easily, by just placing the camera on its side or upside down. Have your subject or model lie down on the ground and put their feet against a wall, making it seem as though the ground is actually a wall which the subject is leaning against. The model could also lean out from windows or doorways, to make it look as though he or she is hanging. One thing to be aware of is the direction in which clothes and hair hangs. Your model could wear some kind of hat, or tuck in their shirt. It also helps to wear clothing that fits a little tighter than normal.
One thing to bear in mind with this technique is that when you turn the camera on one side, it must be precisely aligned at 90 degrees or 180 degrees with the horizon so that the illusion works properly.
Merged Subject Forced Perspective Photos
Recently it is becoming more popular to show old photos of a scene being held in front of a recent picture of that same place. This is referred to as merged subjects. The aim here is to get the old picture to line up with the size of the current scene. The old photo will be held relatively close to the camera, so a large F-Stop value is recommended with a wide angle lens in order to get the two pictures in focus.
So there we have it - I hope that reading this has provided you with a range of helpful techniques and helped you to understand the fundamentals to be able to step outside and start getting some great shots by using perspective, so step outside when you can and have fun with it!
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So now that you understand how to use these techniques please have a look at more awesome techniques that will enable you to take your photography skills to the next level right now.